Sicily: A 1-Week Road Trip on Italy's Largest Island

Many associate Sicily, Italy’s largest island, with pizza, the Mafia, and Mount Etna—until they visit and discover so much more.
Sicily offers picturesque villages, historic cities, dreamy beaches with turquoise waters, an impressive volcanic landscape, and ancient Greek temples.
Located in southern Italy, it’s undoubtedly one of the country’s most beautiful regions, enriched with culinary delights and plenty of Dolce Vita.
With the top attractions spread across the island, we opted for a week-long road trip by rental car.

In this post, we’ll share our diverse itinerary, useful tips, essential information, and our authentic impressions with you.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT SICILY?

The months of April, May, June, September, and October are ideal for nature lovers.
During this period, nature flourishes, and outdoor activities like hiking, walking, and cycling can be enjoyed comfortably in the mild temperatures.
By May, the Mediterranean is warm enough for swimming.
However, try to avoid July and August if possible, as these summer months are busy with tourists and bring very high temperatures that make non-water activities less enjoyable.

HOW MUCH TIME SHOULD I PLAN FOR A SICILY ROAD TRIP?

Reflecting on our experience, we recommend at least 10 days or more to see all the major sights, go on a few hikes, and enjoy plenty of beach time.
We completed our route in seven days, which was doable, but we’d plan for 10 days next time to allow for more beach relaxation.
If you’re focusing on one specific region, like the southeast, seven days would be sufficient.

TIPS FOR RENTING A CAR & DRIVING IN SICILY

Having your own rental car offers ultimate flexibility and adventure. A car rental is especially worth it for those with limited vacation time who still want to explore as much as possible.
We booked our car in advance through rentalcars.com in Palermo, paying about $44 per day with full insurance coverage.
Prices increase significantly in high season, so plan accordingly.

Driving in Sicily is an experience: honking, tailgating, sudden stops, and being passed from both sides are common.
Many local cars have scrapes and dents, so make sure your rental includes comprehensive insurance (covering scratches and dings).
Our car was dented in Taormina, but our insurance covered it without issue.

If your trip starts in Palermo or Catania, consider picking up your car after exploring the city to avoid parking hassles.

SICILY’S TOLL ROADS

Most roads in Sicily are free, though often in poor condition, with potholes and roadwork. The Palermo-Messina and Messina-Catania highways are well-maintained toll roads.
At the toll booth, avoid lanes marked “Telepass”—these are for cars with electronic toll devices. Take a ticket when you enter the highway and pay based on your exit point.
Payment is accepted in cash or by major credit/debit cards.

Here’s a cost guide for common toll routes:

• Palermo to Cefalù: $0.90
• Cefalù to Messina: $9.20
• Messina to Taormina: $2.00

For a specific toll estimate, visit viamichelin.

OUR SICILY ITINERARY

DAY 1: ARRIVAL IN PALERMO

Distance driven: 31 km, 30 minutes
Accommodation: Hotel Elite
Highlight: The charm of Palermo’s historic center

Upon arrival, if you’re not immediately renting a car, there are several ways to reach Palermo from the airport (about 30 km from the city center):

1. By Bus (Prestia e Comande): Runs every half-hour for $6.80 per person, stopping at various city points.
Tickets can be purchased on the bus. (First bus at 5:00 a.m., last at 12:30 a.m.)

2. By Train: The Trinacria Express runs twice an hour from the airport to the city center. The fare is $5.80 per person, and the journey takes about an hour.
You can purchase tickets at the ticket machine on the platform. The train station is directly beneath the terminal.
You can check your exact train schedule in advance on viaggiatreno.it under the "Timetable" tab. Enter "Punta Raisi" as the departure station and "Palermo Centrale" as the destination.
Note: The first train departs at 5:00 am and the last one at 11:00 pm.

3. By Taxi: Fastest but costs around $25-$35.

4. By Shared Taxi: Available right before bus stops, for $8 per person, though prices may vary if it doesn’t fill up.

EXPLORING THE CAPITAL, PALERMO

After dropping off our bags at our centrally located Hotel Elite, we set off to explore Sicily’s capital.
For details on what we saw and did, check out our separate post, “Palermo: 14 Sights in the Sicilian Capital”.

To sum it up, we think one to two days are enough for Palermo’s main sights. If you want to explore the surrounding area, add a third day or more.

BEACH TIP

Located 10 km north of Palermo, Spiaggia di Mondello is one of the island’s best beaches, with fine white sand and crystal-clear turquoise water, creating a Caribbean vibe.
Beach bars and restaurants cater to all budgets.

If you don’t want to pay the high fees (around $15–$25 per day) for lounge chairs and umbrellas, consider bringing a pop-up beach tent.
Lightweight and compact, it’s perfect for Sicily’s beach days. Here is the one we used.

DAY 2: FROM PALERMO TO CEFALÙ AND ON TO NICOLOSI

Distance driven: 260 km, 4 hours
Accommodation: Hotel Etna petit Resort
Highlight: Sunset views of a smoking Mount Etna

EXPLORING CEFALÙ

Just an hour from Palermo, Cefalù is a small coastal town of 14,000 residents with authentic Sicilian charm.
Its laid-back vibe and iconic UNESCO-listed Duomo di Cefalù attract many visitors daily.
Beyond the cathedral, there’s not much to see—so relax, explore the old town’s narrow streets, dine, or unwind at the beach.

If you have time, take a walk up Rocca di Cefalù. For $5, you’ll get a breathtaking view of the turquoise waters surrounding the town.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Trinacria, with its three-legged emblem and the head of Medusa, is the symbol of Sicily.
The symbol has existed since 1282, when the Sicilian population rose up against French oppression.
The color red symbolizes the city of Palermo, and yellow represents the city of Corleone, which flourished as an economic center in the 13th century.
Together, these cities fought for an independent Sicily.

To this day, the Trinacria remains a prominent symbol across the island, appearing on flags, jewelry, and as a popular souvenir for visitors.

DAY 3: FROM NICOLOSI (MOUNT ETNA) VIA GOLE DELL’ALCANTARA TO TAORMINA

Distance driven: 85 km, 1.5 hours
Accommodation: Villa Greta Hotel & Splendid Hotel Taormina
Highlight: Sunset at Teatro Antico di Taormina with Mount Etna in the background

Our fantastic stay at Etna petit Resort in Nicolosi was perfectly located for our Mount Etna tour. Early in the morning, we drove to the cable car base station.

MOUNT ETNA

The approximately 3,320-meter-high Mount Etna, easily recognizable even from a distance, is Europe’s highest active volcano.
The constant plume of smoke around its summit gives you just a hint of the intense activity bubbling beneath the surface.

The 59,000-hectare Etna Nature Reserve (Parco dell’Etna in Italian) attracts thousands of visitors each year eager to experience the volcano up close.
There are numerous ways to explore Mount Etna.
Most tourists, including us, opt to take the cable car to the mountain station, from where an all-terrain minibus takes you to an altitude of around 2,900 meters.

A guide, included with the cable car ticket, shares plenty of fascinating and interesting facts about the volcano during the tour.

Afterwards comes another highlight: The bus driver drops you off at the Silvestri Crater, one of the 400 more or less prominent lateral craters, where you can take a walk along the crater rim. The views are absolutely breathtaking, with the summit of the volcano, the crater itself, and on clear days, the valley below and even the sea in the distance.
Adding to the awe-inspiring experience is the soundtrack of loud rumbling noises coming from the bubbling Etna.

The nearly vegetation-free landscape often gave us the feeling of being on another planet.

If you’d like to get even closer to Mount Etna, you can do so by joining a guided summit tour.
These tours are far less touristy and more physically demanding but take up an entire day and offer an unparalleled experience.

Mount Etna is monitored around the clock with various systems for a good reason – it is unpredictable.
What may not be so apparent during the day turns into a spectacular natural show at night.

From our accommodation in Nicolosi, as well as later in Taormina, we could witness the volcano spewing red lava at night – absolutely breathtaking!

Our conclusion: If you visit Sicily and skip Mount Etna, you’re definitely missing out!

Tip: Even if temperatures in the valley reach 30°C, it’s usually cool and windy on Mount Etna. So, alongside sturdy footwear, make sure to bring a jacket.

The cable car operates daily from 9 am to 4 pm. Tickets to the mountain station cost €30, while a combined ticket for the cable car and subsequent bus ride to the higher elevation costs a steep €68 per person. Tickets can only be purchased on-site.
Be sure to decide in advance which option you prefer, as you won’t be able to buy a bus ticket once you’re at the mountain station.

For more information (unfortunately only in Italian), visit the official website: funiviaetna.com.

THE GOLE DELL'ALCANTARA GORGE

Before heading to our next accommodation in Taormina, we made a stop at the nearby Gole dell’Alcantara.
The gorge, formed along the Alcantara River, consists of impressive rock formations created thousands of years ago from cooling lava from Mount Etna.
You can wade through the gorge’s fresh, crystal-clear water, which reaches up to knee-deep in some places, and is up to six meters wide.
Since the riverbed is rocky, water shoes can be helpful. We spent about half an hour there, but the trip to the Gole dell’Alcantara is absolutely recommended.

‍Our Tip: For those looking for a bit more adventure, there are providers on-site offering canyoning tours through the gorge.

Access to the gorge has an entrance fee. You’ll need to decide in advance whether you want to take a few stairs for the entry price of $1.50 or, for more convenience, take the elevator down for $6 per person.

We opted for the first choice. This entrance is not located at the main entrance of the gorge but further up the road. There’s a small wooden hut where you can pay the entrance fee.
We parked our car across from the main entrance. Although there’s a sign indicating a charge of $1 per hour for parking, no one was there to check when we visited.
This may vary during high season. Here’s the Google Maps link to the parking lot: Parcheggio comunale.

DAY 4: EXPLORING TAORMINA & RELAXING AT THE BEACH

As one of the most beautiful towns on the island, Taormina is a must-see for every traveler to Sicily.

The lifeline and promenade of this hillside town is Corso Umberto. Along this busy main street, you'll find several cafes and small boutiques, the viewing terrace Piazza IX Aprile, and the historic Duomo di Taormina.
Numerous restaurants can be found in the narrow side alleys branching off Corso Umberto, inviting you to relax and enjoy.

The absolute highlight of Taormina is the spectacularly situated Greek-Roman theater, built around 300 BC.

From the stands carved into the hillside, you can enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view over the town, with Mount Etna smoking in the distance.
Above the stands, there’s a stunning view of the coastline.

‍Our Tip: Visit the Teatro Antico di Taormina shortly before sunset for an especially beautiful atmosphere! Opening hours are daily from 9 am to 7 pm.
Tickets cost $10 per person and can be purchased directly on-site.

A cable car takes you conveniently down to the coast in just a few minutes.
The beaches around Taormina are mostly pebble beaches, and most areas charge for sun loungers and umbrellas.
That’s why we believe that if you’re looking for a beach vacation, it’s best not to spend more than a day in Taormina.

Before visiting this romantic hill town, be aware that Taormina is not a hidden gem, so it can often be quite crowded and a bit overpriced. Nevertheless, it’s definitely worth a visit.

‍

DAY 5: FROM TAORMINA THROUGH CATANIA TO NOTO

Distance driven: 146 km, 2 hours
Accommodation: Bella Vista Noto
Our highlights: Spiaggia di Eloro & the old town of Noto

On to the next stage! From Taormina, you can reach Noto in just over two hours by car, passing through Catania.

CATANIA

This city in Mount Etna's shadow is the second-largest city on the Sicilian island, after Palermo.

Along the Via Etnea promenade, you’ll find major attractions like the Baroque-style Cathedral of Sant'Agata, Fontana dell’Elefante, Teatro Massimo Bellini, and the La Pescheria Fish Market.

Aside from the Via Etnea, there’s not much else worth seeing, apart from another very large market, Catania Market – Fera o‘ luni.
The city gave us a rather rundown impression, so we can confidently say you could skip it. After just an hour, we headed to our next destination for the day – a beach visit.

BEACHES AROUND NOTO

Before or after your stay in Noto, make sure to visit one of the nearby beaches, which are just a 15-minute drive away, if the weather’s nice.
Especially beautiful are Spiaggia Lido di Noto or the two natural beaches, Spiaggia di Calamosche and Spiaggia di Eloro, in the Riserva naturale orientata Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari nature reserve.
There is an entry fee of $3.50 per person, but it’s worth it! We had a wonderful afternoon at Spiaggia di Eloro, with its golden-yellow sandy beach and crystal-clear water.

Our Tip: Be sure to bring a beach shell to save on the cost of renting a sun lounger and umbrella.

NOTO

After a relaxing time at the beach, we reached the small, quiet, idyllic Baroque town of Noto in the late afternoon, which is still a real insider tip.
Entering through a large gate (Porta Reale), Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the city’s main artery, lined with honey-colored buildings.
The heart of Noto is the impressive Cattedrale di San Nicolò and the opposite Palazzo Ducezio.
For possibly the best view of the Cattedrale di San Nicolò, head to the rooftop of the Chiesa di Santa Chiara. Entry costs $2 per person.

If, like us, you’re not staying overnight in Noto, we recommend setting aside 2 to 3 hours to explore the city.

You can park your car for free along the street here: Google Maps Link.

DAY 6: FROM NOTO THROUGH RAGUSA, THE VALLEY OF TEMPLES & SCALA DEI TURCHI TO REALMONTE

Distance driven: 197 km, 3.5 hours
Accommodation: Home Scala dei Turchi B&B
Our highlights: The old town of Ragusa, the Temple of Concordia, & the Realmonte beach area

Our last accommodation on our 7-day round trip is in Realmonte in western Sicily. On the way there, we visited three more sights.

RAGUSA

About an hour’s drive from Noto, the hilltop town of Ragusa is definitely one of our absolute Sicily highlights.

The town has two parts, the upper and lower city. We mistakenly ended up in the modern part, the upper city, at first. We searched in vain for the much-touted Baroque old town.
After a long search, we finally found our way to the lower town, Ragusa Ibla. To get there by car, take the winding Corso Mazzini.
Be sure to make a stop at the Percorso delle Scale viewpoint along the way. From there, you get a fantastic view of the old town.
The pedestrian route also runs along Corso Mazzini, consisting of what feels like endless stairs leading down to the winding lower city.

The UNESCO World Heritage-listed old town can only be explored on foot.
Through a labyrinth of narrow, typically Italian alleys, you make your way up to the old town’s masterpiece, the Baroque-style Duomo S. Giorgio.

Around the cathedral, there are numerous cafes and restaurants inviting you to enjoy some Dolce Vita.
Afterward, you can take a leisurely stroll through the small Giardino Ibleo park just below the cathedral. We were told the light and view are particularly spectacular in the evening.

We parked our rental car in the lot below the old town: Google Maps Link. Plan to spend at least 2 hours or more in Ragusa.

VALLEY OF TEMPLES

The ancient Greeks were present in Sicily even before the Romans, especially in the island's southeast.
The highlight of their legacy is the Valley of Temples (Valle dei Templi) near Agrigento.
Despite its name, the temples, dating back to 600 BC, are situated on a plateau. The archaeological site has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997.

Depending on the direction you’re coming from, you might spot the temples atop the plateau during your approach.

Since the temple site is elongated, a round tour isn’t possible. You have two options:

• Take a shuttle taxi ($4 per person) from the lower entrance (Uscita e Parcheggio) to the upper entrance (Porta Quinta), allowing you to walk the site from top to bottom.
  This option takes about 1.5 hours.
• If you decide against the taxi, you can walk from either the upper or lower parking lot through the site and back the same way. This option takes about 3 hours.

We chose the first option, as the temperature gauge already showed 38°C at the parking lot, and there’s little shade within the temple site. Don’t forget sunscreen and water!

During your visit, you can admire a total of 8 temples, in varying states of preservation, all built between 510 and 430 BC:

• The Temple of Concordia, the best-preserved temple in the valley and its main symbol, widely featured online.
• Hera Temple (or Juno Temple), dedicated to Zeus's wife.
• Temple of Heracles, the oldest temple in the valley, with only 8 columns remaining.
• Temple of Olympian Zeus, destroyed by the Carthaginians before its completion.
• Temple of the Dioscuri
• Temple of Hephaestus
• Demeter Temple
• Temple of Asclepius (God of Medicine), which served as a refuge for the sick.

As you make your way through, you’ll also encounter remnants of former residential buildings and ancient citrus and olive trees.
Opening hours are daily from 9 am to 7 pm, and tickets can be purchased on-site.

SCALA DEI TURCHI

After visiting the temples, we wanted to spend the afternoon at one of the region’s most famous beaches, known for the white, terraced rock formation called Scala dei Turchi.

This massive marlstone rock juts out of the azure blue water and is a true natural beauty.
Scala dei Turchi is especially beautiful at sunset, making for an excellent photo opportunity. Unfortunately, the sky was quite cloudy during our visit.

The rock formation can only be reached on foot. You’ll need to park your car along the road (there are unfortunately limited parking spaces along the road) and walk down a few meters to the beach. We walked down the path to Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi, as it’s flat and free of steps.

No special footwear is required – flip-flops will suffice.

In summer, this area can get quite crowded, both during the day and at sunset.
We visited in mid-May and were lucky enough to have no waiting time for a sundowner at the beach lounge, with a view of the sea.

OUR RESTAURANT TIP

Just a few minutes by car from Scala dei Turchi is the cozy Pizzeria Baía, which serves delicious pizzas straight from the stone oven at fair prices.

DAY 7: FROM REALMONTE THROUGH CASTELLAMMARE DEL GOLFO BACK TO PALERMO

CASTELLAMMARE DEL GOLFO

The final highlight of our Sicily round-trip awaited us in the small coastal town of Castellammare del Golfo, located about 30 minutes by car from Palermo Airport.

The small fishing village is nestled picturesquely in a bay, so we wanted to get an overhead view first.
This is possible at the Belvedere Castellammare del Golfo viewpoint, offering a fantastic view over the town.

‍Our Tip: Walk past the tourists to the end of the parking lot, where you’ll find a small path leading down to Castellammare.
Here, you can enjoy the view peacefully without all the other visitors around.

We found the town to be somewhat sleepy. But perhaps that changes during peak season, as Castellammare del Golfo is a popular base for beach vacationers.
Around the town, there are several beautiful beaches, such as Spiaggia Plaja, Spiaggia di Alcamo Marina, and many more.
On sunny days, especially in summer, these beaches are usually packed with tourists.

Since we, unfortunately, had to head home, we didn’t get the chance to fully explore these beaches.

ADDITIONAL TIPS FOR YOUR SICILY ROUND-TRIP:

• Palermo Airport: It can be a bit chaotic. To navigate it smoothly, you should know that check-in is on the 2nd floor, while the often lengthy security check is on the 3rd floor.
  Plan to arrive at least 1.5 hours before your flight.
• Coperto: (lit., “cover charge”): This is a fixed fee in some Italian restaurants and cafes. The amount is independent of the total bill and is usually listed on the menu.
  Additional tipping is optional but not common.
• Lidos: These are beach bars offering sun loungers, umbrellas, sports activities, and also drinks and snacks for sale.
  If you’re not keen on paying the often high fees (around $15-$25 per day) for loungers and umbrellas at beach bars, be sure to bring a beach shell!

USEFUL LINKS & RECOMMENDED TRAVEL GUIDES FOR YOU

• Discover the best accommodations
• Find affordable flights at skyscanner.com
• Find affordable rental cars at rentalcars.com
• The best Travel Guides for Sicily
• Unique Excursions to Experience in Sicily

Can’t get enough of all that Italian flair combined with plenty of  Dolce Vita? Then the beautiful island of Sardinia might be just what you need!
In our blog post “8-Day Road Trip in Sardinia – Our Tips & Highlights”, we share the most stunning spots, highlights, and everything else you should know about this Mediterranean island. Take a look!

‍

Note: This blog post contains our personal recommendations in the form of so-called affiliate links. If you book or purchase something through these links, we earn a small commission. There is absolutely no change to the price for you.