22.2.2024

8-Day Road Trip in Sardinia – Our Tips & Highlights

View of Sardinia's Porto Conte Regional Natural Park
Beitragsübersicht

Sardinia is often called the Mediterranean Caribbean of Europe, with its laid-back culture, unique coves, stunning sandy beaches, and the turquoise-blue Mediterranean Sea.
Plus, it offers the most delicious pasta, exquisite wines, the best espresso, and the creamiest gelato.
In this post, we've summarized our impressions, experiences, and highlights from our 8-day Sardinia road trip.
So, grab an espresso, sit back, and get ready for some Italian Dolce Vita!

DAY 1 - FROM ALGHERO TO STINTINO

Our Highlights: Parco Naturale Regionale di Porto Conte & Cala la Pelosi Beach
Distance Traveled
: 49 kilometers, 1 hour
Accommodation
: Park Hotel Asinara, Stintino

PARCO NATURALE REGIONALE DI PORTO CONTE

After arriving at Alghero Airport in northwestern Sardinia, we decided to save exploring the city for the last day and picked up our rental car to start the road trip right away.
In our post “Sardinia Tips & Info for Your Dream Vacation”, we explain why it’s essential to have your own rental car and where it’s best to rent one.

Our first stop was the Parco Naturale Regionale di Porto Conte, about a 25-minute drive away, specifically the Capo Caccia viewpoint.
This isn’t a traditional viewing platform but rather a natural limestone headland accessible only on foot. Park your car along the road on the designated parking area.
A short walk through dense bushes and striking rocks will bring you to the coastline in just a few minutes, where you’ll be met with breathtaking views of the seemingly endless azure sea.

If you want to visit the Grotta di Nettuno caves, located only a few minutes away, just follow the road from the parking area. Unfortunately, it was closed during our stay, so we couldn’t visit.

STINTINO

At the northern tip of the island lies the small town of Stintino, which we didn’t find particularly worth visiting, but the surrounding beaches are true highlights.
The shallow Spiaggia La Pelosa beach, with its fine white sand and crystal-clear waters, attracts tourists and locals alike, especially in the summer.
It’s no surprise that the beach is often crowded in August.

Though we didn’t get to experience the beach in its “postcard view” due to a rainy day, the stormy weather gave it a unique, charming look.
Fun fact: The beach also has some unusual visitors – small wild pigs that tend to appear in the evening. So, drive carefully, especially at night!

DAY 2 - FROM STINTINO TO PALAU

Our Highlights: The town of Castelsardo & La Maddalena Island
Distance Traveled
: 140 kilometers, 2.5 hours
Accommodation
: Grand Hotel Palau, Palau

After a cozy breakfast at our accommodation, we continued our road trip in heavy rain.
Our route took us along the coast from Stintino through Porto Torres to Castelsardo and eventually to Palau.

The journey featured picturesque coastal views and adventurous inland stretches, with both well-paved roads and rougher dirt paths.
Many roads lack adequate drainage, so be cautious, especially during heavy rains. The depth of the puddles can be deceiving, and high speeds can send water spraying up over your car.

In Porto Torres, we made a quick stop to pick up some supplies, so we didn’t explore much.
However, it’s worth noting that Porto Torres has larger supermarkets, which might be helpful if you’re staying in Stintino, where only small shops with limited selections are available.

CASTELSARDO

Our journey continued to Castelsardo, whose beauty impressed us the moment we arrived. The sight of the imposing old fortress towering high above the town immediately captivated us. Naturally, we drove straight up to the fortress to explore it. Entry was €6 per person, but we felt it wasn’t necessarily worth the price, as you can also enjoy a stunning view of the town and the sea from outside the fortress.

From the fortress, we strolled leisurely through the narrow, winding streets of the town, which exude an unparalleled Italian charm with their delightful little restaurants.
It doesn’t get more "Dolce Vita" than this!
If you’re in Castelsardo around lunch or dinner time and feeling hungry, we highly recommend the small Pizzeria Da Frassau (Via Brigata Sassari 1, 07031 Castelsardo).
Since it’s very popular, make sure to reserve a table in advance to secure a spot.

CAPO TESTA

Our next and final stop before Palau was the small peninsula of Capo Testa.
Here, you can take a short walk along the fascinating granite rock formations or swim in one of the picturesque coves on a nice day.
During our visit, strong winds and intermittent rain kept us out of the water, but the stormy sea crashing against the massive rocks was a dramatic sight.

Tip: In the high season, park at the sandy beach parking area (a large gravel area on the right), not at the turnaround spot, as parking there is quite challenging.

DAY 3 - EXPLORING PALAU AND LA MADDALENA

On Day 3, we woke up early with lots planned. We hadn’t opted for breakfast at our hotel, so we walked to ORSO Cafe Palau nearby, where we enjoyed delicious cappuccinos and a sweet chocolate croissant (Cornetto), just like the locals. It was the perfect start to the day, in true Italian style.

PALAU

We then took a brief stroll through the small town by the water. Palau itself isn’t a highlight; for many travelers, it’s just a stopover to explore northern Sardinia or a gateway to La Maddalena. Our tour of the town lasted less than an hour, which was more than enough to cover all the main sights.

LA MADDALENA

At the Palau harbor, you’ll find the ferry terminal for La Maddalena, known as the Jewel of Sardinia.
Tickets for the 20-minute ferry ride can be purchased at ticket booths or directly on the ferry, which runs hourly from 8 am to 3 am.

If you plan to explore La Maddalena without a car – though we don’t recommend it – you can park for free all day at Parcheggio Palau Libero (Via Riva dei Lestrigoni 24, 07020 Palau).
During peak season, this lot fills up by 9:30 am, so arriving early is wise to avoid high fees at the harbor lot.

La Maddalena is mostly untouched, with life centered around the harbor area. You can rent a inflatable boat from a local provider for a day trip.
If you’re visiting in peak season, it’s best to reserve by phone in advance to ensure availability.

To explore the island, drive along the main road encircling the island, passing beautiful beaches and coves.
A narrow bridge leads to the neighboring island of Caprera, where we visited Cala Napoletana – a cove with Caribbean-like beaches.

After a challenging 45-minute walk in the hot sun over rocky paths, we were a bit disappointed. Despite the crystal-clear water, the small, crowded beach didn’t meet our expectations.

However, if you love hiking, adventure, and aren’t expecting a full beach day, you might find it enjoyable.

Luckily, we stumbled upon Capocchia d'ù purpu Beach on the way back. It’s slightly hidden but accessible by car with convenient parking nearby.

The beach is stunning, though it can get crowded even in low season. Arriving early in peak season is advisable to secure a good spot.
After a successful beach day, we took the ferry back to Palau.

DAY 4 - FROM PALAU TO OLBIA

Our Highlights: The narrow streets of Arzachena & Dolce Vita in Olbia
Distance Traveled
: 40 kilometers, 45 minutes
Accommodation
: Maison et charme hotel boutique, Olbia

ARZACHENA

On our way to Olbia, we stopped in Arzachena, a small, authentic village to see Santa Lucia Church and its famous colorful steps.
Other than these steps, Arzachena doesn’t offer much, so we recommend visiting only if it’s on your route.

Note: To reach the church parking area, you’ll need to drive through narrow streets, sometimes with oncoming traffic.
Even experienced drivers may find this challenging, especially with a mid-sized car!

OLBIA

For many travelers, Olbia is the first stop on a Sardinian road trip, as the largest airport on the island is nearby. Olbia, Sardinia’s fourth-largest city, is easy to explore on foot.

The harbor city enchants visitors with its small, winding streets lined with colorful facades.
The Corso Umberto is the liveliest street, offering a wide range of regional and international shops, cozy cafes, bars, and excellent restaurants to suit all tastes.

With an aperitif in hand and delicious charcuterie and cheese platters, we could have spent hours people-watching from a little spot on the street.
Enjoying Dolce Vita is practically part of the sightseeing in Olbia.

If you’re interested in shopping, several clothing stores, including Decathlon, are located near the airport, along with the Centro Commerciale Terranova shopping mall.

DAY 5 - FROM OLBIA TO BUDONI

Our Highlights: Sunrise at Budoni Beach, the Senna Silana mountain pass, & Gennargentu National Park
Distance Traveled
: 39 kilometers, 50 minutes
Accommodation
: Hypnotic Guesthouse, Budoni

PORTO SAN PAOLO

On the fifth day, we continued our journey westward. Our first stop was the small beach town of Porto San Paolo, just a 25-minute drive away.
From Porto San Paolo Beach, you’ll get a fantastic view of Isola Tavolara, a striking rock island off Sardinia’s coast that has become a true symbol of the region.

Isola Tavolara is reachable in about 10 minutes by boat through one of the tour operators located at the beach entrance. However, since there were no tours running in the off-season, we decided not to visit the island and continued to San Teodoro, where we planned to visit the beautiful Spiaggia Dell Isuledda.

SAN TEODORO

Parking at Spiaggia Dell Isuledda is free, though the road leading there is rocky and bumpy, not very car-friendly.
But it’s worth it: you’ll find a stunning, white sandy beach with crystal-clear waters that truly reminded us of Caribbean beaches.
With a small kiosk and toilet nearby, it’s ideal for a perfect beach day.

Before heading to Budoni, we wanted to add some adventure to our relaxing beach time and took a detour to Monte Nieddu to search for a hidden waterfall and various natural pools nestled in the mountains.

Despite an hour of intensive searching – using our car, Google Maps, a drone, and even going on foot – we couldn’t find the path to the waterfall.
If you discover the way to Monte Nieddu, we’d be grateful if you could share the directions with us!

BUDONI

In Budoni, we spent the early evening exploring the charming seaside town.
The main street is the lively center, filled with restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops selling beach essentials, along with supermarkets and a gas station.

We were especially impressed with the two-kilometer-long sandy beach and the brilliant blue water.
If you follow the signs to Baia di Budoni, you’ll find a small saltwater lake along the beach, where flamingos sometimes appear.

Our Tip: Catching the magical sunrise on the beach is a must-see. Even if you’re not an early riser, it’s worth setting an alarm to witness this breathtaking natural phenomenon.
The atmosphere is indescribable – simply beautiful!

DAY 6 - DAY TRIP TO CALA GOLORITZE

PASSO GHENNA SILANA

On day six, we had planned a trip to Cala Goloritze, so we were up bright and early.
Our route initially took us on the highway for about two hours before we switched to the narrow, winding Passo Ghenna Silana mountain pass.
If you’re traveling in eastern Sardinia, this route is highly recommended. The pass offers spectacular, uniquely shaped landscapes, mostly limestone, with moderate slopes, steep rock faces, and deep gorges – a favorite among motorcyclists who frequent the road.
Due to safety measures, police checkpoints are common, so it was no surprise when we encountered one in a small bay along the way.

CALA GOLORITZE

After reaching Gennargentu National Park, you’ll need to park your car and hike the last 4 kilometers over gravel and rocks to Cala Goloritze.
The path is a trekking route, so sturdy footwear is a must – this is checked at the entrance. If you walk briskly, it will take around 1 to 1.5 hours to reach the beach.
This trail is only suitable for those in good physical condition who don’t mind tackling steep inclines and rough terrain under the hot sun. Families with young children should avoid this route.

We were relieved when we finally reached Cala Goloritze. The cove is picturesque! However, it can still be crowded even in the off-season, making space on the small beach limited.

Our Verdict: It’s not worth the effort!Next time, we’ll definitely visit the cove by boat from Cala Gonone to save ourselves the physical strain.
Boat tickets for this destination should be booked in advance during peak season, as they often sell out by mid-morning.

BAUNEI

To reward ourselves for the past hours’ exertion, we stopped for some delicious gelato in the idyllic town of Baunei right after leaving the national park.
This charming town sits on a high plateau that’s visible from the mountain pass. If you’re approaching from the north, take a moment to stop at a scenic overlook just before Budoni’s entrance, where you’ll have an impressive view of Baunei’s high-altitude soccer field nestled among the mountains.
Baunei is no longer a hidden gem among tourists, but it’s still worth a visit for its unique charm.

Back in Budoni, we enjoyed dinner at Symposium Restaurant. Both the pizza and seafood spaghetti were delicious!

DAY 7 - FROM BUDONI TO VILLASIMIUS/CAGLIARI

Our Highlights: Spiaggia di Porto Giunco & the peanut ice cream at Kremet in Cagliari
Distance Traveled
: 228 kilometers, 3 hours
Accommodation
: Falkensteiner Resort Capo Boi, Villasimius

We got up early on our final day to enjoy the enchanting sunrise on Budoni’s coast one last time.
Afterward, we headed inland to the Spiaggia di Cala Monte Turno, a beach about three hours away.
There’s parking directly behind the beach, and after a short walk, you’ll find yourself on the soft sand.
Despite the windy conditions, the beach was calm, and we could wade into the crystal-clear water without any waves.

There’s a large restaurant near the beach entrance that serves food and drinks, along with sunbed and umbrella rentals – perfect if you don’t have your own.
Plus, there’s a public restroom, which makes for an even more relaxing beach day. In the off-season, this beautiful beach is nearly empty, though it can get quite crowded in the summer.

The coastal area around Villasimius and Costa Rei is one of the top destinations for tourists, especially families with children.
It’s no surprise, as the beaches in southern Sardinia are among the island’s most beautiful and ideal for a relaxing beach holiday.

Our top five favorite beaches in the Villasimius area are:

  • Spiaggia di Porto Giunco
  • Spiaggia di Campulongu
  • Spiaggia di Porto Sa Ruxi
  • Spiaggia di Simius
  • Spiaggia di Punta Molentis

If you’re looking for more than just relaxation, it’s helpful to know that this region is sparsely populated with limited cultural offerings. For that, you’ll need to head to the capital, Cagliari.

CAGLIARI

We decided to spend the evening in Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia. From Villasimius, it’s about an hour’s drive along a beautiful coastal route.

Compared to the quieter locations we’d visited, Cagliari was bustling, loud, and fast-paced. The amount of cars seemed to triple compared to the smaller towns.
After a week in tranquil villages and nature, this was quite a contrast. We parked at the harbor and explored the city on foot.

Cagliari left little lasting impression on us. Like other cities, it has plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops, but nothing particularly stood out.
After dinner, we treated ourselves to the island’s best peanut ice cream at Kremet Gelateria in the city center. Afterward, we looked forward to returning to our peaceful village.

Our Verdict on Cagliari: A few hours or half a day is enough to explore the city. But if you plan to visit the 8-kilometer-long Spiaggia del Poetto beach, set aside at least another day.
Along with turquoise waters and beautiful beach clubs, there are recreational activities like boat rentals, diving, and sailing schools.
The modern promenade is ideal for leisurely walks and bike rides.

DAY 8 - FROM VILLASIMIUS TO ORISTANO

Our Highlight: The beautiful town of Bosa
Distance Traveled
: 146 kilometers, 2 hours
Accommodation
: Via Del Centro Guesthouse, Oristano

On our last full day, we set off early for a two-hour drive westward. Our final night was spent in the charming town of Oristano.
The typically Italian old town has a small shopping street with plenty of restaurants, supermarkets, and quaint stores.
Since Oristano isn’t very touristy, we encountered only a few other travelers.

On the coastal edge of town, you’ll find activities like swimming, surfing (windsurfing, kiting, wave surfing), diving, horseback riding, hiking, or simply enjoying the stunning nature.

At around 1 pm, when siesta began and shops and restaurants closed, leaving the town nearly empty, we decided to continue to Bosa, as the rainy weather made a beach day impossible.

BOSA

Driving along the coastal road from Oristano to Bosa, you’ll first reach Bosa Marina, one of the most popular beach destinations on the west coast.
Typically, you’d expect idyllic turquoise waters and fine white sand, but due to the rain, we experienced a wilder, dramatic side of the coast.

We parked in a bay right on the coastal road to fully enjoy this incredible natural spectacle. The 4-5 meter high waves crashing against the coast created a wild, stormy scene.
It was mesmerizing; we could have sat there for hours just watching the power of nature.

After another 10-minute drive, we reached Bosa, a charming little town perched on a hill that’s visible from afar.
It’s best to park your car outside the town and cross the bridge over the Temo River on foot to enter the old town, as cars can’t go far.

We explored more narrow, winding streets in Bosa than in any other Sardinian town. Due to its hillside location, the streets are filled with countless steps, giving the town a special character. Let yourself get lost in the colorful streets – it doesn’t get more Italian than this, not even in Castelsardo!

At the top of the town stands the 12th-century Castello Malaspina ruins, while the lower part is filled with restaurants, bars, and little shops.
Bosa enchanted us with its unique charm, and we’re convinced: it’s the most beautiful town in Sardinia.

Can’t get enough of all this Italian flair combined with Dolce Vita? Then Sicily might be the perfect place for you!
In our post Sicily: A 1-Week Road Trip on Italy's Largest Island, we share the best spots, highlights, and everything you need to know about this Mediterranean island.

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